Navy and Gold Granny Square Bag Free Crochet Pattern

Grab your hook and some navy and gold yarn because this granny square bag is about to become your new favorite project. The on-point squares create a diamond lattice that looks fancy but works up faster than you think. Classic granny vibes meet modern tote energy, and the whole thing holds way more than its sleek shape suggests. Ready to make something that turns heads at the market?

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About This Crochet Pattern

This Navy and Gold Granny Square Bag is a roomy handheld tote built from thirty-two granny squares set on point. Each square features a navy flower center wrapped in a golden border. When the squares join together, those borders form a continuous diamond lattice across the entire bag. The rounded base and gently curved sides come from folding and seaming two square panels together.

Skill Level: Confident Beginner

Time to Make: 18 to 26 hours

Finished Size: 13 × 14 × 4 inches (33 × 35.5 × 10 cm), excluding handles. Handle drop is about 6 inches (15 cm).

This project looks impressive at the farmers market or as a gift, but the techniques stay surprisingly accessible. If you can chain, single crochet, and double crochet, you already have every skill you need. No advanced wizardry required.

Materials You Will Need

Gathering your materials before you start makes the whole process smoother. Here is everything you need for this crochet bag pattern:

Yarn:

Worsted weight or aran cotton (#4 weight), approximately 350 grams of navy (about 640 yards) and 320 grams of gold (about 590 yards)

Suggested Yarns:

Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran in Midnight Blue and Mustard Yellow
Lily Sugar’n Cream in Navy and Gold (held together for body)
Scheepjes Catona in Deep Ocean Green and Mustard (double strand)

Hook:

5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook, or size needed to achieve gauge

Notions:

Tapestry needle for weaving ends
Stitch markers
Scissors
Optional fabric lining (1/3 yard)

Cotton yarn works beautifully for this project because it gives the bag structure and holds its shape well. It also has a lovely drape that makes the lattice pattern really pop. IMO, nothing beats that crisp cotton feel for a tote that sees daily use.

Gauge

One finished granny square should measure 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) square after blocking, worked through Round 4 with a 5.0 mm hook.

In plain double crochet (dc): 14 dc × 8 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)

Gauge is not critical for fit since this is a bag rather than a garment, but it will affect your finished size and how much yarn you use. I recommend making one test square and blocking it before you commit to making all thirty-two. Trust me on this one—uniform squares save a lot of head-scratching later.

Abbreviations (US Crochet Terms)

Let me walk you through all the abbreviations used in this pattern. If you are more familiar with UK terms, I have included a conversion note below.

ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops)
dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops)
cl = cluster (3 double crochets worked together)
sp = space
st(s) = stitch(es)
rep = repeat
RS / WS = right side / wrong side

For UK Crocheters: US single crochet equals UK double crochet. US double crochet equals UK treble crochet. Substitute throughout and the stitch counts stay the same.

Special Stitches

These special stitches are what give the granny squares their distinctive flower appearance and clean corners.

3-dc Cluster (cl)

Work 3 double crochets in the same space, but leave the last loop of each stitch on the hook. You will have 4 loops on your hook. Then yarn over and pull through all loops to close. This forms one petal of the navy flower. (1 cl made)

Corner

Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) all in the same corner ch-2 space. This is the standard granny corner that squares the motif. (6 dc and 1 ch-2 space made)

Flat Single Crochet Join

Hold two squares with wrong sides together. Working through both back loops, single crochet across to join. Chain 1 over each corner so the seam lies flat and forms a visible ridge on the right side. This ridge is what gives the lattice its raised, defined look.

Pattern Notes

Before you begin, here are a few important things to keep in mind:

The beginning ch-3 counts as the first dc throughout unless stated otherwise
Squares are joined with the right side facing using the flat sc join, which forms the raised golden lattice ridges you see in the photos
Keep a consistent tension across all squares so they block to the same size
Weave in your ends as you go to save finishing time
Every instruction ends with its stitch count in parentheses

Stick to these and the whole bag comes together without drama.

How to Make the Granny Square

Make 32 squares in total. Each uses navy for Rounds 1 and 2 (the flower) and gold for Rounds 3 and 4 (the border). Your finished square should measure 4.5 inches (11.5 cm).

With navy, make a magic ring.

Round 1

Ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring. Pull ring closed, sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (12 dc)

Round 2

Ch 1. *Work 1 cl in next st, ch 2, skip next st.* Repeat from * around. You will have 6 petals made. Sl st to top of first cl. Fasten off navy. (6 cl, 6 ch-2 sp)

Round 3

Join gold in any ch-2 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp (this is half a corner). *Ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1**, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next sp to make a corner. Repeat from *twice, then from* to ** once. 3 dc in first sp, ch 2, sl st to top of ch-3.

You now have 4 corners and 1 side cluster between each. (24 dc, 4 corners)

Round 4

Sl st into corner sp. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same corner. *[Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] across to next corner, ch 1**, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner. Repeat from *around, ending from* to **. Sl st to top of ch-3.

Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch (30 cm) tail for joining. (48 dc, 12 dc per side, 4 corners)

Square Tally

You need 16 squares for the front panel and 16 squares for the back panel. Block all 32 to a uniform 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) before joining.

Reading the Layout

Each panel is a 4 × 4 grid of squares set on point, which means the squares are turned 45 degrees so their corners point up and down. When joined, the gold borders of neighboring squares meet to form the continuous diamond lattice. The four outer corners of the grid become the rounded edges of the bag once seamed.

Before You Join

Take a moment to prepare:

Lay out all 32 squares in two 4×4 panels with the flowers facing up
Check that every flower sits on point and the gold lattice lines up
Snap a quick photo of the layout to keep your placement straight

This step might seem unnecessary, but trust me, it saves a lot of frustration later. Nothing worse than realizing mid-join that half your flowers are pointing the wrong way.

Making and Joining the Squares

Join each panel first, then seam the two panels into the bag.

Step 1: Join Into Rows

With gold and the flat sc join, connect 4 squares side by side to make a row. Work through back loops only across one full side of each square.

Repeat to make 4 rows of 4 for the front, and 4 more rows for the back. (8 rows total)

Step 2: Join Rows Into Panels

Join the 4 rows of each set top to bottom with the same flat sc join. Match corners carefully and ch 1 at each junction so seams stay flat.

You now have two 4×4 panels. (2 panels)

Tip: Always join with the right side facing you so the ridge of the seam lands on the outside. That ridge is what gives the lattice its raised, defined look.

Shaping the Body

The teardrop shape comes from how the two on-point panels are seamed together along their lower edges.

Seam 1

Place the two panels wrong sides together with flowers facing out. With gold, flat sc join up the right side, across the bottom point, and up the left side. Leave the top open for the bag opening.

Ch 1 around each outer corner so the base curves smoothly. (3 joined edges)

Round A: Top Edging

Join gold at one top corner. Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire open top. Work 1 sc in each st and 1 sc in each ch-1 sp. Sl st to first sc. (approximately 96 sc)

Round B

Ch 1, sc in each sc around to firm up the opening. Sl st to first sc. Do not fasten off if continuing straight into the handles. (approximately 96 sc)

Shaping Note: Because the squares sit on point, the side corners naturally pull the body into the rounded, slightly pointed base shown. A little blocking at the bottom point sharpens the silhouette.

The Handles

Two sturdy straps rise from the top edge, featuring gold on the outside with a slim navy edge that mirrors the bag body.

Mark two handle positions on the front top edge. Each should span 22 stitches, centered with a gap between them. Repeat on the back so the handles align.

Row 1

With gold, join at the first marker. Ch 1, sc in each of the next 22 sts. Turn. (22 sc)

Rows 2 through 40

Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. Repeat until the strap measures about 13 inches (33 cm), or your preferred length. (22 sc each row)

Edging

With navy, sc evenly down both long edges of each strap. This creates the navy trim and adds strength. Fasten off. (2 navy edges per strap)

Join the Handles

Match each front strap end to its back counterpart and seam with sc to form two continuous handles. Reinforce the base of each handle with a few extra stitches. (2 handles)

Strength Tip: For a heavier carry, work the handles holding two strands of gold together. You can also slip a length of cotton cord inside as you seam the strap closed. FYI, that little extra reinforcement makes a big difference when the bag is loaded.

Finishing and Care

Finishing

Weave in all remaining ends on the wrong side and trim closely.

Wet-block the whole bag by shaping the rounded base, squaring the lattice, and letting it dry fully over a towel-stuffed form.

Optional Lining: Cut fabric to the flattened bag shape plus 1/2 inch seam allowance. Sew into a pouch and hand-stitch inside the top edge for added structure and to hold contents securely.

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Care Instructions

Washing: Hand wash cool with mild soap. Do not wring. Press water out gently.
Drying: Reshape and dry flat, away from direct heat and sun to protect the colors.
Storage: Store stuffed lightly so the rounded base keeps its shape.

Cotton Note: Cotton may relax with use. A quick re-block refreshes the lattice and brings back that crisp look.

How to Customize the Size

The square-panel construction makes resizing simple. You can change the grid, the square size, or the handles to create your perfect bag.

Bigger Tote: Use a 5×5 grid per panel (50 squares total) for roughly a 16 inch (41 cm) wide bag.
Mini Bag: Drop to a 3×3 grid (18 squares) for a sweet handheld pouch.
Larger Squares: Add a 5th gold round to each square (about 5.5 inches / 14 cm) for a softer, slouchier bag with fewer squares.
Shoulder Strap: Work the handle rows to 22 inches (56 cm) for a comfortable over-the-shoulder drop.
Color Play: Swap navy for charcoal or forest green. Keep the gold lattice for the same graphic effect.
Yarn Weight: Move to DK weight with a 4.0 mm hook for a finer, lighter bag. Expect about 12% smaller finished size.

Keep the Math Easy: Whatever grid you choose, make the front and back panels match, keep the square count even, and always end each round with its stitch count so resizing stays predictable.

FAQ’s

Can a true beginner make this bag?

If you know the basic stitches—chain, single crochet, and double crochet—you can handle it. The special stitches get explained clearly, and the join method is straightforward once you try it. Start with one test square and you will feel confident fast.

How long does the whole project actually take?

Most makers finish in 18 to 26 hours depending on speed and how many Netflix episodes sneak in. The squares themselves go quickly, and the joining stage is the most time-consuming part.

Do I really need to block the squares?

Yes. Blocking makes every square the same size and helps the lattice sit flat and crisp. Skip it and you risk wonky seams and a bag that looks a little sad.

Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton?

You can, but cotton gives better structure and holds the shape longer. Acrylic tends to stretch more over time, especially with a loaded bag. If you go acrylic, consider lining it for extra support.

What if my gauge is off?

No big deal for a bag. Just make sure all your squares match each other. A slightly larger or smaller finished size still works great—adjust the handle length if needed.

Is the lining necessary?

Optional but recommended if you plan to carry smaller items that might poke through the open lattice. It also adds a polished finish and extra durability.

Final Thoughts on This Granny Square Bag Crochet Pattern

This Navy and Gold Granny Square Bag has become one of my most-requested designs, and I think it is because the combination of classic granny squares and modern construction creates something truly special. The on-point layout transforms a simple motif into an eye-catching diamond lattice, and the teardrop shape means this bag holds more than you would expect while still looking elegant.

Once you finish that first square and see the navy flower bloom against the gold border, you will be hooked. The rest of the process feels almost meditative—row after row of joins turning into a real, usable bag. Make one for yourself, then another as a gift. You will not regret it.