I call this one “Daisy Mae,” and she has been living in my notebook for almost three years now. The original sketch came to me during a particularly dreary February when I was desperately craving sunshine and summer picnics. I drew a little yellow dress with daisies along the neckline and wrote “someday” at the bottom of the page. Well, someday finally arrived, and I am so happy to share this sunflower yellow summer babydoll crochet pattern with you.
This dress is everything I imagined and more. The fitted bodice uses a gorgeous tulip cluster stitch that creates these subtle raised petal shapes, almost like the fabric itself is blooming. The skirt falls in two tiered ruffles worked in an open shell and fan lace, each finished with the sweetest pompom trim. And those tiny crocheted daisies across the neckline? They make me smile every single time I look at them.
If you have been searching for a summer crochet dress pattern that feels special without being impossible to make, this is the one. The construction is straightforward once you understand the rhythm of the stitches, and I have written out every single step so nothing is left to guesswork.
About This Summer Babydoll Dress Pattern
This crochet dress features a close fitting bodice worked in a dense textured stitch, paired with a flowy two tiered skirt in delicate lace. The silhouette is classic babydoll style, fitted through the bust and flaring dramatically from the waist down. Thin spaghetti straps tie into little bows at each shoulder, adding a playful feminine detail.
The entire dress is worked in a warm, saturated sunflower yellow with small white daisy appliques decorating the front neckline. The pompom trim at the hem of each skirt tier adds movement and visual interest. When you walk, this dress swishes and sways beautifully.
Skill level: Advanced beginner to intermediate. You should be comfortable with working clusters, shells, and crocheting in the round. If you have never worked a cluster stitch before, I recommend practicing on a small swatch first. The motion becomes rhythmic once you get the hang of it.
Time estimate: Approximately 30 to 40 hours for an experienced crocheter. The bodice takes roughly 10 to 12 hours, each skirt tier takes 8 to 10 hours, and finishing work takes another 4 to 6 hours.
Ready to feel like walking sunshine?
Finished Measurements
This pattern is written for adult size Small (US 2 to 4). Here are your finished dimensions:
- Bust: 32 to 34 inches (81 to 86 cm), worn with 1 to 2 inches negative ease
- Waist (relaxed): 28 to 30 inches (71 to 76 cm)
- Hip at widest tier: approximately 52 inches (132 cm) including ruffle volume
- Total length from neckline to hem: approximately 22 inches (56 cm)
- Bodice height: 6 inches (15 cm)
- Tier 1 skirt height: 5 inches (12.5 cm)
- Tier 2 skirt height: 6.5 inches (16.5 cm)
- Strap length: approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm) each, adjustable
The dress falls approximately mid thigh on someone between 5 foot 4 inches and 5 foot 7 inches tall.
Materials Needed
Yarn:
- Approximately 900 to 1100 yards (823 to 1006 meters) of DK weight (US 3 Light) cotton or cotton blend yarn in sunflower yellow
- Approximately 30 yards (27 meters) of DK weight yarn in white for daisy appliques
Hooks:
- US size E-4 / 3.5 mm for bodice and appliques
- US size F-5 / 3.75 mm for skirt tiers (the larger hook keeps the lace open and fluid)
Notions:
- Yarn needle for weaving ends
- Scissors
- At least 8 stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Pins for blocking
- 1 yard (91 cm) of pompom trim in matching yellow with approximately 3/8 inch (1 cm) diameter pompoms, or crochet your own as described below
- Optional: 6 to 8 small white daisy buttons as substitutes for crocheted appliques
Recommended Yarn
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Buttercup is my top recommendation. This 100 percent mercerized cotton has a smooth twist that shows the tulip cluster and shell stitches beautifully. It is machine washable, widely available, and affordable. You will need approximately 3 to 4 skeins of 186 yards each in Buttercup, plus a small amount in White.
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK in Buttercup Yellow is another excellent choice. It gives a slightly more polished, structured look. You will need 7 to 8 skeins of the 125 meter skeins in yellow and one partial skein in white.
Any smooth, non fuzzy DK weight yarn that achieves gauge will work. Avoid ribbon yarns, heavily textured novelty yarns, or chunky singles because these will hide your beautiful stitch patterns.
FYI, mercerized cotton really makes those tulip clusters pop.
Gauge
Getting gauge right is critical for this dress, especially in the fitted bodice.
Bodice gauge (E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, tulip cluster stitch):
16 stitches and 12 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)
One complete 4 stitch repeat measures approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide
Skirt gauge (F-5 / 3.75 mm hook, shell fan lace):
One complete 8 stitch shell repeat = approximately 1.75 inches (4.4 cm) wide
6 rows of shell pattern = approximately 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) tall
If your gauge is too loose, go down a hook size. If too tight, go up a hook size. Always swatch in both stitch patterns before beginning.
Abbreviations
Here are all the abbreviations used in this crochet pattern. I have included plain English definitions so you know exactly what each stitch means.
- beg = beginning
- BLO = back loop only
- ch = chain
- ch-sp = chain space
- dc = double crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- t-ch = turning chain
- tc = tulip cluster
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
- sc2tog = single crochet two together
Special Stitches
Tulip Cluster (tc)
This stitch creates a closed, slightly raised petal shape. It looks complicated but becomes second nature after a few repeats. Here is how to work it:
- Yarn over, insert hook into designated stitch or space.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook.
- Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops only. You now have 2 loops on hook. This is an incomplete double crochet.
- Yarn over, insert hook into the SAME stitch or space again.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 4 loops on hook.
- Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops only. You now have 3 loops on hook.
- Yarn over and pull through all 3 remaining loops on hook to close.
The completed tulip cluster counts as 1 stitch and creates a beautiful closed bud shape.
Shell Fan Stitch
A shell is 5 double crochet stitches worked into the same stitch or space. The shell fan lace repeat used in the skirt is an 8 stitch multiple worked as follows:
[sc in next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st (shell made), ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] repeat across or around.
In subsequent rounds, shells are worked into the center dc of the previous shell, and sc are worked into the sc of the previous round.
Crocheted Pompom Ball (optional)
If you want to make your own pompom trim instead of purchasing it, here is how:
Make a magic ring.
Round 1: 6 sc into ring. (6 sc)
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sc)
Round 3: [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times. (18 sc)
Round 4: [sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times. (24 sc)
Stuff with scrap yarn or fiberfill.
Round 5: [sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times. (18 sc)
Round 6: [sc2tog, sc in next sc] 6 times. (12 sc)
Round 7: sc2tog 6 times. (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through remaining 6 sts, pull tight, and secure.
Make approximately 48 pompom balls in yellow for both tiers.
Daisy Applique
Each daisy uses white yarn and the E-4 hook.
Make a magic ring.
Round 1: ch 1, 5 sc into ring, sl st to first sc to join. (5 sc)
Round 2 (petals): [ch 4, sl st back into same sc, sl st into next sc] 5 times.
Fasten off with a tail for sewing.
Make 6 daisies total.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
- The bodice is worked flat (back and forth in rows) to create a neat straight neckline edge. It is then seamed at the center back.
- The skirt is worked in joined rounds from the waist downward. The right side always faces you during skirt construction.
- Throughout the bodice, the turning chain 2 at the start of RS rows does NOT count as a stitch.
- Each skirt tier is begun by working a foundation or pickup row along a previous round. Tier 2 creates an overlapping peplum effect.
- Stitch counts in parentheses at the end of each row or round represent the total number of working stitches, not including turning chains unless noted.
Step by Step Instructions
BODICE
The bodice is worked flat across a foundation chain that represents the full circumference of the bust.
Foundation Chain:
With E-4 hook and yellow yarn, ch 131.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (130 sc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc in first sc (edge st). [ch 1, sk 1 sc, tc in next sc, ch 1, sk 1 sc, tc in next sc] 32 times. Sc in last sc (edge st). (130 working positions)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 2, turn (does not count as st). Sc in first edge sc. [ch 1, tc in next tc, ch 1, tc in next tc] 32 times. Sc in last edge sc. (130 working positions)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc in first sc. [ch 1, tc in next tc, ch 1, tc in next tc] 32 times. Sc in last sc. (130 working positions)
Rows 5 through 18: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 alternately for 14 more rows. Continue in established tulip cluster pattern without shaping. (130 working positions throughout)
The bodice at this point should measure approximately 5.5 inches (14 cm) tall.
Bodice Waist Edge
After Row 18, do not fasten off.
Row 19 (Waist Edge, RS): Without turning, work along the bottom of the foundation chain: sl st to first ch of foundation chain, then sc evenly along the entire bottom edge of the bodice, working 1 sc into each chain foundation stitch. (130 sc along waist edge)
Fasten off and set aside.
Bodice Seaming and Neckline
Fold the bodice piece with RS together. Using a yarn needle and yellow yarn, sl st seam the 2 short side edges together from the bottom edge upward for 15 inches (38 cm), leaving the top 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) open for wearing ease. Turn right side out.
Neckline Edging Round:
With RS facing, join yellow yarn at the center back seam at the top edge.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire neckline edge, working 1 sc per stitch or per row end to keep the edge flat. Aim for 130 sc total. Sl st to first sc to join. (130 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Sl st to join. (130 sc)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Checkpoint: The bodice tube should measure approximately 6 inches (15 cm) tall and approximately 20 inches (51 cm) in circumference. Laid flat, it should measure approximately 10 inches (25.4 cm) from side to side.
TIER 1 SKIRT
The first skirt tier is worked in joined rounds from the waist edge.
Setup Round:
With F-5 hook and yellow yarn, join at the center back of the bodice waist edge.
Round 1 (increase round): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st. [2 dc in next sc, dc in next sc] 43 times. 2 dc in last sc. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. (174 dc)
Round 2 (adjustment to shell repeat): Ch 1, sc in first dc. Sc2tog over next 2 dc. [sc in next 4 dc, sc2tog over next 2 dc] 28 times. Sc in remaining 3 dc. Sl st to first sc to join. (144 sc)
Round 3 (begin shell fan lace, RS): Ch 1, sc in first sc. [ch 2, sk 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell made), ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc] 18 times, omitting final sc. Sl st to first sc to join. (18 shells, 18 sc, 36 ch-2 sps)
Continue the shell fan pattern for the full height of Tier 1, then attach pompom trim along the lower edge. Work Tier 2 in the same lace pattern but with additional increases so it flares out further and creates that classic overlapping peplum look.
Finish by crocheting or sewing on the six white daisy appliques along the front neckline and attaching the adjustable spaghetti straps that tie into sweet little bows at the shoulders.
FAQ’s
Can I make this in a different size?
The pattern is written for Small, but you can adjust the foundation chain in multiples of 4 for the tulip cluster and adapt the shell repeats for the skirt. Swatch carefully and measure as you go.
Do the tulip clusters take long to learn?
They look fancy but the motion clicks after a couple of rows. Practice on a small swatch first and you will be flying through them.
Is the dress see-through?
The bodice is dense enough for comfort. The skirt lace is open, so many makers wear a slip or shorts underneath for full coverage.
Can I skip the pompoms and daisies?
You can, but they really finish the look. Store-bought pompom trim or simple buttons work as easy substitutes if you want to save time.
How do I care for the finished dress?
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry. Mercerized cotton holds its shape and color beautifully with gentle care.
Will this work for cooler weather?
It is designed as a summer piece, but layer it over a long-sleeve tee or turtleneck and it becomes a playful transitional dress.
Wrapping Up Your Sunflower Yellow Summer Babydoll
There you have it—a sunny, swishy babydoll dress that feels like pure summer joy. The tulip clusters give the bodice real texture, the lace tiers move when you walk, and those little daisies seal the deal.
IMO, this is the kind of project that makes people stop and ask if you really made it yourself. Take your time with the clusters and enjoy the rhythm of the shell lace. When you finally put it on and those pompoms bounce a little, you will know every hour was worth it.
Happy crocheting, friend. Go make some sunshine.
